Ark Skincare: Serums

I’ve noticed that serums are coming back in a big way! Every skincare brand now has one type of serum or the other. But what has really caught my eye is that some brands now have more than one serum in their range to address any skin type complaint that someone can suffer from.

I have been using bits of Ark Skincare over the past few weeks and I’ve really enjoyed their simple but effective products. I’ve found myself consistently reaching for the face wash consistently as a second cleanser in the evenings. With the pump dispenser it’s straight forward to use and my skin feels clean and refreshed after. I would recommend this for people who have normal/combination skin and don’t want to be baffled by science but still want a product that does the business.

But the star on the range is by far the targeted SkinResponse serums. There are 8 serums in the range and I have been using the hydrating serum which is one that I think everyone should have, even those with oily skin. A lot of people have a misconception that oily skin doesn’t suffer from dehydration, but it can be one of the biggest causes of oily skin.

The serum is very light and penetrates the skin very quickly to relieve the symptoms of dehydration. This is really the beauty of serums and why they are very effective in skincare.   It delivers a powerful moisture boost and l find my skin is more hydrated as it locks moisture into the skin, before I apply my usual night moisturiser.

I really would recommend these serums to anyone who feels they just aren’t getting all they need from their current skin care and feels their skin could do with a boost in a particular area. You can view the full range of serums here. Pricewise they are extremely friendly to the purse and at £39 for 30ml they last a long while. It comes with a pipette so you can gauge your 2-3 drops accurately and use it in a way unique to you.

 

Super Cleansers = Super Happy Skin?

I saw this article by Anjana Gosia on Daily Mail Online at the end of June and I’ve been writing this response ever since! Its now the very end of July :-( but I still wanted to share my thoughts on it.

Have your read it?

Ok, assuming you have, here’s what I think.

Do I welcome the slew of super cleansers that are coming unto the beauty market? There are now some very clever cleansers from leading brands that claim not only to remove make up, but also to unclog pores, shrink pores (not scientifically possible), moisturise and protect from UVA/UVB rays. That is quite a lot for one product alone and you’d think that as a professional and lover of skin care in general, I’d be bringing out the bunting and jumping for joy. No?

Well, I wouldn’t go that far, but I really do welcome the input of more science into skincare. Science that helps us attain the skin care ideals that we so desperately want and also helps us have more healthy and robust skin. With these nouveau cleansers, in between going to work, feeding the children, walking the dog and countless other tasks to be completed from waking up to going back to bed, I predict that super cleanser like this are a god send to those of us who are time poor.

The article is right that with our increasingly busy lives, sometimes the simple task of washing our faces at the end of the day can be a chore. I know I’m not the only one who feels this. Do you? But this is the price to pay for clean, healthy skin. There is a reason why our Asian sisters have better skin care that us here in the West. They make the time to invest in a proper skin care regime . According to a recent Stylist Magazine article, they follow a 8 step product routine to achieve the best and cleanest skin possible. That definitely casts a shadow over the 3 step routine that most women I know follow. I myself only manage a 5 step routine on a good day.

As someone who advocates washing your face TWICE at night, regardless of whether its been a regular day at the office or a night on the tiles, I think these super cleansers are great as a one-off, but I’m not convinced yet that they should be used as the be all and end all of cleaning your skin. I know that when all you can think of is snuggling under the duvet, interrupting that dream via a visit to the bathroom sink  can seem like a hard one to fathom. But if, when you achieve that mammoth feat at 10pm, you know that it’s a 2 step jig with your super cleanser and you’re out, I think it will encourage a lot more of us to avoid hitting the pillow with a full face of gunk. When its the case of being able to wash and go in one step as opposed to sleeping in face paint, I’ll take the super cleanser.  So long as it’s a one-off!

That being said, my niggles with these jack of all trade cleansers is that are they doing a thorough enough job in any one particular function? I already feel icky thinking about a product like BeautyLab Glycowash that will leave a coating on my skin. Maybe I’m only fashioned, but I prefer the security of going through all my steps to achieve the fine ‘all done’ moment.

For example, Dr Mario Luca Russo’s Sun Protective Day Cleanser is supposed to leave a layer of SPF 15 after washing. I don’t know how effective that is as I’ve never used it, but would it be enough to just go out in the sun after? Or would you need to top it up with something stronger? Would it create a false sense of security that one is protected from harmful rays? I can only advise caution.

Marks & Spencer has launched Skyn Icelandic Glacial Cleansing Cloths. Like, why? Plus it foams. Enough said. I spend so much time educating clients about the ineffectiveness of cleansing wipes, that no cleansing wipe will ever be sophisticated enough for me to advocate it as a totality of cleansing. If it’s a first step followed by a water cleanse, then great, if not then I don’t think its even worth considering, even if it was soaked in liquid gold. I don’t believe face wipes can ever be a substitute over old school cleansing.

Also are these super cleansers delivering enough anti oxidant and free radical protection? Astalift says their Moisture Foam Cleanser face wash does. I’m yet to be convinced that a face wash will deliver as much protection as a targeted serum would. But hey! maybe I’m just old school. I know, I’d definitely feel like I have to add something else in the mix.

The final question I ask myself is – would I buy any of these cleansers?

Yes, I would. But only to use as part of my current cleansing routine. With the benefits that some of these products profess, it would be good to include somewhere.  The Cor Silver Soap would be great for my oily skin. It’s anti bacterial, its plumps and evens out skin tone. They claim it moisturises, but I would use a separate moisturiser as well!

The scale of development is exciting. Washing ones face to remove impurities but also delivering skin care solutions is exciting and shows how far developments in the industry have come over the years. But still I advise researching to make sure you use the right products for your skin type. And if you do use a super product, pay extra attention to your skin  and any changes so that you don’t get deficient in any area.

Ask Dija – Can you recommend how to tackle oily skin & make up?

As this is two a part question, I’m going to answer them in separate posts. This one will focus on a basic general view on how to tackle oily skin. It’s not necessarily a personal prescription.

Firstly, let me define oily skin. Large pores, over active sebaceous glands resulting in oil sitting on top of the skin. Has a visible shine which can develop very quickly even after washing. If you have dark oily skin, it can unfortunately scar more easily and leave dark spots which will create an uneven tone. Having said this I believe oily skin is the best skin type to have.  (Yay to you and me!) A lot of people think it’s a hinderance and embark on a pointless journey to dry it out! Oily skin tends to retains is smoothness and suppleness longer over other skin types and ages very well. So embrace it and give it a big hug as often as you can.

It’s a skin type that needs a lot of love and appreciation, especially if you want it to behave itself. I constantly find clients abusing their skin type then complain when it gets worse or isn’t settling down. It’s not a fight!

Starting with cleansers – always start with an oil based cleanser like Shu Uemura Fresh Cleansing Oil. It does contain mineral oil  but I find it breaks down oil, make up and grime much more effectively than going in feet first with a cream or gel based cleanser. If you’ve got an intolerance to mineral oil, I suggest something with olive oil or even jojoba oil. If you’re thinking, why use oil to clean my oily skin, it’s because oil dissolves oil easier than anything else. They have chemistry :-)

Click on image for details

Go in with your second cleanser, which should have some antibacterial factor to it, oily skin is prone to breakouts and this type of cleanser will help keep the skin clean and free of germs. Try Ren’s ClearCalm 3 Clarifying Clay Cleanser which deep cleanses and unclogs pores.

Next tone – this smooths and prepare the skin and pores for moisturiser. A lot of toners also provide anti oxidant protection which will keep your skin protected from free radicals which aggravate any existing skin concerns.  Ole Henriksen Grease Relief is great for everyday use. If you have sensitive but oily skin, Pai skincare is your friend.

And moisturise – you need to be looking for an oil control moisturiser and there are many around. Dermalogica do Oil Control Lotion which is extremely light. I’ve used for many years and really like. Aesop do a great one called Oil Free Hydrating Serum which has got aloe and green tea extract. Plus a serum will sink straight into the skin unlike a cream which can sit on top and take more time and effort to massage in. No matter what people say, MOISTURISE. If you don’t your skin gets really angry and produces more oil to get you back. Skin follows the premise of karma. Period.

With oily skin, its important to exfoliate and do a face mask regularly to prevent a build up of dead skin cells which makes skin look blah and forms breeding ground for spots. For black skin that tends to mark easily, I prefer stick to fruit based acid exfoliators. You’re looking for products that contain AHA’s or BHA’s like salicylic or glycolic acid. If parabens (preservatives) don’t bother you, then Philosophy Microdelivery Peel is a good option as it brightens the tone of your skin and resurfaces with vitamin C, lactic and salicylic acid.

Mask wise – you want something that purifies and draws oil and other ‘skin crap’ from deep within the skin. Clay based masks are what you want in your arsenal. Aesop Parsley Seed Facial Cleansing Masque is a good one I’ve discovered which not only purifies with clay but also hydrates with aloe vera and provides anti oxidant protection with rosehip and parsley seed extracts. If I’ve got a big day ahead, I reach for this one.

All that said, I do realise that these products may be at the high end of many people’s budget, but I truly believe that when it comes to skin care, one must invest as much as they can. How we perceive our skin greatly affects our mood and how we feel about ourselves, so I will always cut back somewhere else to afford the best for my skin. Its not always easy. Where you can, always get free tester products first, so at least you can test run before investing a big tub of something that may not work for you. Plus, even if you may pay a lot for these products, they do tend to last a long time.

Also look at what you are eating. If you have a high sugar and fat diet, this may also be triggering excessive oil production. Not drinking enough water and being dehydrated can also contribute. For some people dairy also plays a part. Point here being, don’t just look at what you are putting on top of your skin, but what also goes inside your mouth.

Product Review: Suti Cleanse Organic Balm

I am beyond pleased to have discovered SUTI Skincare. I discovered it via Twitter, a forum that I have a lot for. Sometimes the Twitterati hype up beauty products so much that by the time I buy it and use, I’m left a bit wanting and wondering what the hype was about.

Not this particular hype though. It was well worth it and Suzannah and Tina deserve all the praise they are getting. I was initially considering some products to buy as a present for a friend going through chemo when SUTI was recommended to me. By chance, they were online and offered to send me some to trial. Aren’t they lovely?! Not only did they send one for me, but also for my friend.  Sweet! I will say at this point that when mine finishes, I will put my hand in my pocket and buy a replacement, not only because I love the product, but because SUTI is a small, British skincare company who make great products and I believe in supporting my own where I can.

Digressions aside, on to the main agenda.

This is a cleansing balm that has become my ‘go to’ product for when I feel my skin needs potent natural love. It literally feeds my skin with goodness and thats because its packed with the following:

Goodness, goodness, goodness!

But also shea and cocoa butter, both which is highly moisturising. I sometimes uses pure unrefined shea butter on my skin as a moisturiser and after sun treatment so I know how good it.

The balm is a yellowy colour and smells quite citrusy and thats from the amount of lime/orange derived ingredients. Its very uplifting. All natural off course, so these can do you no harm. Unless you are product sensitive to begin with. If in doubt, patch test first.

It feels and look grainy in the pot. But these ‘grains’ melt on rubbing. I think these are the butters which harden when cool. Nothing to worry about as they melt as you rub the balm into your skin.

The balm is so nutritious I don’t use it for a first cleanse. No way, I just feel that it would be a waste. I wear a moderate about of make up, so I cleanse first with Shu Uemura Oil, do a first cleanse and then second cleanse with the balm. It comes with a muslin cloth, which is ok, but I prefer a hot flannel because they retain heat for longer and hold the citrus vapours for longer. Very spa ‘ish’!

I think its easy to see how much I like this balm and even though I have oily skin I think its very effective and is a welcome boost to my skincare. I know that they also do facials and I’m sure it won’t be long before I book myself in for one.

Tip – if you’re having a long soak, put the mask on and sit in the bath. This gives more time for the oils to melt, penetrate and the steam creates a wonderful warming effect.

Find out more about SUTI here. The website if full of information on how to make the best out of your products.